Cold shakes!

Another week's gone by in the Saharawi refugee camps, and Jeremy's managed to forget what precious little Hassaniya he had managed to learn. No matter, as Maddy is doing all the talking for the two of us: today she started teaching at the Salam English Center in Samara Camp, while Jeremy walked around passing out cookies and textbooks. It's a shame we can't post pictures here (connection too slow), because to see us dressed up to "go to school" in the morning is to think we were living in Chicago after a blizzard. You simply can't get warm in a winter desert, anyways between the hours of 8 pm and 2 pm. I would kill for a pair of mittens.

Our "host dad" Ahmed is out in the middle of the desert, on the trip to Mauritania that we (as non-visa holding Americans) were unable to embark on ourselves. So, instead of talking to Mauritanians there, we're searching for them here in the camps...believe it or not, the economic situation in Mauritania is so dire that people come here, to refugee camps in SW Algeria, to find work. Taxi-drivers, security guards, petty merchants: good chance the fella is from Mauritania (where Hassaniya is also spoken) and that he is trying to get Saharawi citizenship by "emmigrating" to these refugee camps. Bizarre and beguiling situation.

Earlier today we gave into our cravings and made a batch of brownies. Actually, it was just one brownie, and by brownie, we mean "cake." Sure beats goat, or camel for that matter.

Some more fun from NW Africa!

After leaving the Canaries on January 6, we spent four days in the Occupied Territories of Western Sahara, specifically in the Saharawi capital Laayoune. There we met with human rights campaigners and walked about a city becoming more Moroccan day by day. We also took a trip to the territory's principal port (25 km through desert from Laayoune, on a rugged stretch of Atlantic coast), where European fleets are overfishing millions of tons of octopus, flounder, and tuna from the waters.

On our way to the other Sahara--the refugee camps--we had to fly through continental Spain, then wait for two days in the beautiful Algerian capital, Algiers. In Algiers, we kept a conspicously low profile, but did manage to enjoy eating some wonderful couscous & patisserie and trolloping through the city's windy and hilly streets. A week ago, we left the Mediterranean for the desert, landing in Tindouf to a much-anticipated reunion with Maddy's host family in the camps. Maddy's host-mom, Haha, is a sweet and affectionate woman, not without some mischief, who cooks outstanding meals inspired by Rachel Ray, but who happens to be married to a creepy chain-smoker, Ahmed, who takes to telling near-total strangers about how he once whupped some Spaniards in soccer, back when Muhammad was a little boy.

Increasingly confident in her linguistic abilities (while Jeremy mumbles to himself about "halub-juhb"), Maddy is turning towards the difficult and exciting task of preliminary research. At the time of posting, we are entertaining a weeklong excursion through the desert to Mauritania (look it up!), but we'll keep you posted. Mauritania is a vast Hassaniya-speaking country, and many Saharawi refugees in the camps maintain business and kin relations with Mauritanian communities.

Quick notes so far: 1) going days upon days without showering (unthinkable in the Amazon) is actually not too bad in the desert. 2) goat meat IS as bad as Maddy warned; camel turns out to be sweet, vaguely reminiscent of mincemeat pie! 3) The Aljazeera cable network has some good contacts with the American producers of dopey made-for-TV dramas. 4) Saharawis tend to take 5 minutes to greet one another (even a neighbor whom you see everyday) in a ritualized speech pattern that is, increasingly, getting on Jeremy's nerves. Otherwise, no complaints. 5) the desert has thus far proved productive for syllabus wrtiting and dissertation mapping. Halub-juhb! Hamdillallah!

...and more photos from Las Canarias

Maddy and Mom enjoying some over-sweet wine, yummy cheese, and salty ham in a cave-cafe (you read correctly) in the Canarian interior.

Here we are, taking a break from some off-road buggy driving on the rugged (and steep) inland of Gran Canaria. Jeremy drives too fast, by the way.

All dressed up for New Year's at a Swedish/Spanish Party, Maddy managed to eat all twelve grapes by 12:05. Yes, she's wearing yellow underwear (not shown).

Grooving to the oldies, just after midnight. Jeremy and Mom have nothing--absolutely nothing--on the old man in the bowtie (stage right). He rocks.

Some Photos from the Canary Islands, part 1

Here we are, with the Atlantic Ocean behind us (and behind that, Africa...)

Together in Las Palmas, heading for the Occupied Territories

Dear All,

We have returned from a delicious vacation on the beach here in the Canary Islands (Spain), and now we´re back from a way-too-long break from the blogosphere. Sorry! Jeremy has moved on from Pará (in Brazil), and is beginning to work on his dissertation after spending a few weeks in the states. Maddy´s been in the Canaries since her birthday, and Jeremy since Christmas. We had a joyful and restful reunion here, and tons of fun with Maddy´s Mom, who was here until January 2. We are leaving this weekend for the Occupied Territories (Western Sahara), and then back to southwestern Algeria on the 10th. Much Love and Happy New Year! Sorry again for the hiatus...we´ll be posting more photos soon!

-Maddy and Jeremy